A piece I wear constantly in the summer is a strap top, so now that I’m learning patternmaking, I decided to experiment and create a few designs from my basic blocks — and this process resulted in three different versions.
First version: testing the darted base
I started with my bodice blocks and made a top with darts. I used leftover linen from a dress to make the test garment. Since I didn’t have enough fabric, I added a center‑front seam and made the back straight.
In this pattern, the adjustments had been transferred into the bust dart, which made it too wide and caused it to become pointy once sewn. Even so, I’ll wear it at home. In fact, I’ve already worn it several times — I wanted to test the length and strap placement, so I kept adjusting, trying it on, taking notes, and repeating until I found what worked best. In the end, I chose crossed straps, which I love because they never slip.
Second version: dartless base with minimal ease
For the second top, I used the dartless bodice base with 0.5 cm of ease and used the same pattern for both front and back. Once again, I used linen from a dress. My plan was to make the top with two layers on both front and back, but I didn’t have enough fabric for the back.
Even so, I really liked the final result, and I’m already planning to make this version again in another fabric.
Third version: replicating a favorite top
With the base pattern tested and approved, I decided to use it to replicate one of my favorite tops. It already had several pulled threads, so it was time to replace it.
I used viscose from a dress and the same base pattern, adding 5 cm at the center to create the gathers. Since I wanted to use elastic instead of shirring elastic thread, I added a lining up to the waist. This allowed me to run the elastic inside the lining while also giving the neckline and armholes a clean finish.
I used the same pattern for the front and back, but after trying it on I realized the back had too much fabric. Next time, I’ll add only half the amount to the back (2.5 cm).
Working with elastic: tricks that made the process easier
Because I used a narrow elastic (5 mm), I had to insert the elastic before sewing the tunnel — otherwise I wouldn’t be able to pull it through. For wider elastics, it’s possible (and even easier) to sew the tunnels first and insert the elastic afterward.
To avoid working with already‑gathered fabric, I marked the elastic and threaded it through the top without cutting it, keeping it the same length as the garment. This allowed me to sew all the tunnels with the fabric flat. Only at the end did I pull the elastics to the marked points, cut the excess, and stitch them in place.
Clean finishes and small challenges
To achieve a clean finish on the armhole, I used the method of flipping the lining over the main fabric so the seams stay enclosed. I stitched halfway along the lining — it didn’t turn out well the first time, but the second attempt was acceptable.
One thing I hadn’t anticipated is that this method leaves the gathers loose and adjustable. If you want the gathers to stay fixed, the best approach is to put the top on, adjust the gathers, secure them with safety pins, and then sew them in place.
You can sew vertical lines distributed across the top (on the neckline and over the elastic), or combine vertical lines with a horizontal one over the strap and neckline.
What’s next?
I already have another design in mind using this same strap‑top base. I’m curious to see how many variations I can create from a single pattern.
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