How I Copied a Dress: Part 1 – Patternmaking

Original

To avoid spending time sewing pieces that I later realize don’t suit me, I decided to take a more practical approach: replicating dresses I already wear and love. I went through my wardrobe and, since almost all my summer dresses are good candidates, I started with the simplest one.

I examined how the dress was constructed, took measurements, and wrote down what I thought needed adjusting and what I wanted to change. The front neckline, for example, has always felt too high — if it weren’t for the pockets, I would probably wear the dress backwards because I much prefer the back neckline.

While drafting the pattern, I also took the opportunity to correct a few issues the original dress has on my body: the excess fabric that gathers in thelower back area, and the skirt length, which is shorter at the back than at the front in the original piece.

Original

This time, besides the sewing video, I decided to show how I drafted the pattern. It may inspire others to copy their favourite garments too.

About the pattern

I used my dartless bodice block, which I copied and altered according to the design I wanted. I’m learning patternmaking through Marlene Mukai’s Modelagem Profissional course.

To draft the bodice of the dress, I marked the neckline height on the pattern:

·       Front: 5 cm above the armhole line.

·       Back: the height corresponding to half the armhole depth (20 cm ÷ 2 = 10 cm).

For the straps, I moved the shoulder in by 4 cm and marked a width of 3 cm. Then I redrew the neckline and the armhole.

I added a 1.5 cm neckline adjustment on both the front and the back, which works well for my measurements. For other people it may not be enough — especially if the neckline is more open or if there is more bust volume. The best approach is to draft, try the pattern on the body, and mark the adjustments while wearing it.

If you’re using a block drafted specifically for your body and already know which adjustments you need, make them as usual. If you’re using a commercial pattern or a pattern that has already been fitted to your body, you may not need to adjust anything — those corrections may already be built in. And it’s also possible that your body is proportional and doesn’t require any adjustments at all.

If you’re unsure which adjustments you need, the best method is to use a soft paper that can drape around the body. Fold, mark, and draft a base pattern. This base will serve for other designs and will help you understand your body better.

At this stage, I already know exactly which adjustments I need — and those are the ones I show in the video. Remember: the measurements I mention are mine. Use the video as a guide, but adapt everything to your own body. Every body is unique, and my pattern will not fit someone else. 

The next video will focus on sewing the dress.