Dress with rushing on the neckline and straps

Front

Continuing my attempt to recreate my dresses, this time I chose a design with a gathered neckline and an elastic waist. I used the same patterns as in the previous dress — the A‑line skirt and the strappy bodice — but added 5 cm at the center to allow for the gathering.

I chose a blue fabric for the lining, and the result turned out much better than last week’s dress. This one is lighter, more comfortable, and was also easier to sew.

To create the elastic channel, I used the seam allowance of the lining skirt, increasing it by 3 cm (I used a 2 cm elastic). A simpler option would be to increase the waist seam allowance equally on all pieces — bodice and skirt, outer fabric and lining — and then trim the excess after assembling the dress. However, my outer fabric had just the necessary height, so I couldn’t increase the allowance. That’s also why I opted for a rolled hem made on the overlock.

Back

Original dress

I tried to find a decorative elastic for the waist and a stretchy trim for the neckline, but I couldn’t find anything that worked. So I decided to create a gathered detail to apply instead. I cut fabric strips 5 cm wide and twice the length of the straps and neckline. I ran the strips through the overlock to make a rolled hem, trimming about 0.5 cm as I sewed. On the opposite side, I used the machine plate as a guide and trimmed the excess.

To create the gathers, I placed the sewing machine needle in the center of the strip and made one stitch. With the needle down, I lifted the presser foot and passed a thread behind the needle. Then I lowered the presser foot and made two stitches to secure the thread. I switched the stitch to zigzag and sewed while keeping the thread inside the zigzag. To gather, you simply pull the thread: if you pull gently as you sew, by the time you reach the end, the strip is already gathered. It’s important not to pull too much, because when the gathering is excessive, the strip starts to curl and becomes harder to apply.

With the strips ready, I sewed the gathered trim onto the straps (the video where I show how I make thin straps is at the end of this post) and also along the neckline. With the leftover gathered strips, I even made a small flower to use as a brooch: I rolled the strips, stitched them together, and finished with a pin on the back.

 

I’m very pleased with this dress. Everything went smoothly, I tried new techniques, and the inside turned out almost as clean as the outside. I dare say the finish is even better than the original — especially when it comes to the alignment of the seams.

 

This is the video where I show how I make thin straps.